Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've seen individuals concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout the city. It is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Across the World
So far, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay greener and more diverse. They protect open space from development by creating permanent, productive agricultural units inside cities," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Across Bristol
The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she says, stopping with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the skins into the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only challenge encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on